gen 1 pajero Review

in this video we're going to take a lookat maintaining and servicing the right control for the suspension we are goingto show you how to adjust the right height for a torsion bar suspensionwhich is featured in some nissan isuzu and chevrolet make and model let's takea look at what's involved and position the suspension for a different rideheight and servicing the right height linkage you're first going to need toremove the shock absorber and the stabilizer bar and link from both sideof the suspension when you are going to be relocating the jack stand from thelower control arm to the frame rail of the vehicle they're going to need toposition your jack in the middle of the
center support where the differential ismounted that will be the crossmember once you can lift the vehicle at thatposition you will look and make sure that the vehicle can maintain itsstability then you will remove the tires from under the vehicle and place thejack stand to its fully extended mode supported on the vehicle frame rail nowwe can move to inspecting the lower control arm bushing we will now continueto adjust the torsion bar for the lower control arm by following the bar we willnotice its adjuster in this area the vehicle gross weight relieved from thesuspension and the lower control arm we will now back off on this locker nutand relieve the adjuster nut so we could
take all the tension out of the lowercontrol arm for the suspension there is one thing that you should knowabout this adjuster you must never ever make any adjustment to this linkage whenthe wheel is on the ground all the vehicle weight must be on the frame tomake any adjustment the lower control arm so you're gonna need to wrench to dothis one is going to hold the adjuster nut which is on the bottom the top oneis going to unlock the adjuster not this is where we want to have the nut fullyextended or preferably all the way to the top before we just start releasingthe adjuster nut so removing these two nut is going to bevery challenging and you're going to
have to take a lot of turns so you mustbe careful with this exhaust heat shield because this is going to have alikeliness to slice your hand you want to make sure you also applysome heavy grease that will be the wheel bearing grease to ease the release ofthe lot this adjuster nut is going to have tension while turning it at firstbut after you make about eight to ten turn the tension will be relieved makinga lot easier to turn this tension at the beginning is relieving the torsion barand the lower control arm formatting from any preload while relieving justadjusting nut you're going to notice the lower control arm tends to lower itselftill it's seated onto this bump stop
once the control arm is seated to thebump stop then this light will become easier to release so at around thispoint you will start feeling a relief in blood once we feel that we leave then we'll beable to turn my hand to release the adjuster from the shackle on the control to release the shackle from torsion-barthis locker not that's going to have to get removed completely from the stud nowthat we have the adjuster to lower not release when we turn this knot herewe're going to end up turning the bolt itself so now we got to grab the bottomhere and ratchet it out we're going to
use the wrench by placing it to hold thenut you won't want to use a vise grip on the nut because the vise grip is goingto clamp on to the mud causing more restriction in your turning so with thewrench brace against the exhaust bracket now turn the boat want to be carefulhandling the knot because it's going to be up in temperature we're going tocontinue and do the same thing to the adjuster nut when i face the wrench onthe logic itself you just remove the shackle bolt completely you will notice it's not because it'sdifferent than the other one both pretty long this is our lock or not this is ouradjuster nut and this is the locker nut
so the thinner one is going to go on topand the thicker one is going to be on the bottom you need to think of one onthe bottom because this is what actually holds the load when the suspension is inmovement if you were to use the bottom one chances are you have less threadsand the bolt will most likely become strip so everything is engineered withthe purpose here is a little first aid for all of you who might get cut duringthe process of fixing your vehicle you want to use some of this saltiodized so you mix it with a water like if you have a little cut like that youjust soak your hand in the water in the soil water and this is going to kill offall bacteria and you will be able to
heal much faster also eat an egg egg isalways good so you don't need medicine or go to the doctor or worry aboutinfection once you can mix this salt in the water and soak your wound in it solet's start to leave in the left side portion bar or the suspension so we'regoing to spray the penetration oil because that's going to be able to leakits way down into all the crevices of the treads but this grease is to help usswing we back off the line so this side is much easier to relieveand compare to the right side so this tell us that someone messed theright-side adjuster before and what they probably did is they turn the nut whilethe suspension still bearing load and
that load is what caused the nut toprobably eat away at the threads previously so then we set it the factorysetting and now that we went then remove it you're experiencing a restrictionwith a nut making us have to use the wrench to back this lock or not all theway off so as we get to the top of threaded shaft the boat became veryrestrictive so we have to use the tool again this is a sign that this side wasnever removed because still stiff to the factory specification when compared tothe other side so you want to pay attention to all these that will findknickknacks because they all relate to the threads on the bolt and a lot andthat is the most important part in
mechanic's you must make sure you have agood thread and the threaded nut so you don't want too many movement with thisnut on its shaft it should absolutely have low plate when you try to move iton the shaft we're at the end of leaving the lockerlot so the third and the threads of the both is what's going to play a majorrole in restricting the nut from removal so with the wrench bracing itself simplyturn from the bottom so you're going to want to rotate your motion from pushingbecause when you're pushing like this you're building your back muscle andthen when you're pulling actually when you're pulling you're building the backmuscle when you're pushing your building
your chest motion so you're going tobuild your left side back and chest on the left side suspension and you canpull your right side back and chest on the right side suspension that's a jokefor the day this is one of the longest bolt on thisvehicle it actually goes from the bottom of the vehicle all the way to china please don't take me seriously with mychinese oak because i wouldn't be fixing the vehicle with the shock absorberremoved we must be attached and stabilize the link this link in thevideo description to see how to service the stabilizer handlingnow that we have our suspension ready
for the lower control arm bushinginspection we're going to grab the bottom of the rotor and we want to liftthe suspension independently so while we're doing this lifting up and down wewant to look at the bushing and the movement of the pivoting point or thecontrol arm to make sure it's not clunking or moving in a abnormalsituation once all the tension has been relieved from the torsion bar we coulduse a pry bar like this and place it between the lower control arm joint andtry to see we get any movement in the bushing and any excessive movement willmean that we have to replace the bushing in the lower control arm but in our casecontrol arm bushing seems to be in good
condition so we just want to lift the suspensionso the bottom of the control arm strikes the stabilizer bar this is going toensure that we have full travel for the suspension with no misalignment let'stake a look from under the vehicle at what happens when we move the suspension we will now replace our stabilizer barand link and you could go to this video in the description to see how to replacethis link properly but now that we're going to be replacing in for its finalinstallation we want to make sure we pack a lot of grunts and it's hardwarebecause you see these components are
going to be exposed to water and whenthe water lodge between the metal it's going to promote corrosion so the greaseis the only protection against the corrosion and you are finished with bothsides stabilize the bar and link installation you're going to want tomake sure you lock your nut like this so it does not align you want to make sureit's in a step then you're going to want to also make sure you count the threadson the top of the linkage making sure you have an even amount of threads onthe left side and compared to the right side we are now going to get ready toinstall these two shock absorber which are used and was removed from thevehicle previously so when you're going
to be reusing use sharks you want tomake sure they have a even pressure to control both side suspension evenly sothis is how you're going to know when both shock are evenly pressure going toput them to the ground so the one on the left side has more pressure and the oneon the right so when the shock is fully compressedyou want to do a race and you want to look at them extending so as you can seethis side is much more of the performance than this one but we'restill going to reuse them until we get a new shot from rancho next week whenyou're going to be installing the shock you want to make sure you apply some ofthe same grease between the bushing and
the nut and bolts also to the lower bonelet's return to reinstalling suspension adjuster boom for the threaded stud wewant to come to threads making shorter even on the right side and compared tothe left side this is going to make sure you have an even preload tension on thetorsion bar so the vehicle could sit at a even right heighttake the 19 millimeter wrench you're going to place the box and let thewrench onto the lot and use a 19 millimeter socket and your 3/8 driveratchet take all the slack out of the booth so here is something i want to show youwith the bolt this arm and the bone all
the way inside of its crossmember thisis going to have the suspension fully extended at its highest ride height nowto lower the suspension you're going to need the arm itself for the torsion barto sit around in this area and it's going to bring the suspension to amid-range ride height the lower you drop this bolt and its head is the lower thesuspension will see so you do not want to seat the suspension too low andbecause the tire is going to affect the ride and the tire is also going to havea tendency to rub inside of the wheel well so once we have this bold slide you justhave to tighten down on it until the
bolt is actually flat with thecrossmember surface you can also count threads for the threaded stud you wantto come to threads making sure that even on the right side and compared to theleft side this is going to make sure you have an even preload tension on thetorsion bar so the vehicle could sit at a even right height here is somethingthat you must do when you're final with your adjustment you want to apply a lotof grease in this area where the torsion bar joist itself against the crossmemberthis area is going to be prone to friction during suspension movement soyou want to make sure you have some grease in that area because as time goby this bar will most likely become on a
line from its factory position anotherthing you want to take a look at is you want to remove this rubber boot from thetorsion bar spline if these spline are to become corrosive the torsion bar willsnap inside of its choice so you must play some grease in that area to preventthe corrosion if the torsion bar is to snap you will lose suspension on theside of the vehicle for the broken torsion bar you want to make sure youperform this grease application on both side left and right we are final withinstalling our adjuster bolt for the torsion bar we're now going to get readyto lock the nut but it's linkage and we're going to wantto use 219 millimeter wrench for this so
you basically want to have this is whatwe want our locker not an adjuster to look like to be off line you will alsobe required to apply some grease to the spine of the front of the torsion barwhere it attaches to the lower control arm because all these area could belarger with water and it will corrode the spline and then it could snap thebar so you can also notice on your caliper you have a are it's signify forright side so you can know the difference when installing your caliperyou do not want this bleeder on the bottom you want the bleeder for the toplet's record our final adjustment measurement for the adjuster stud and wewant the same measurement for both side
left and right so this is the maximumright height for this adjustable suspension and you must remember as youchange the right height on the vehicle the tire camber will also change byleaning outwards or inwards our maximum right four inches so as i said before when youincrease the right height or change the right height the top of the tire willhave a tendency to lean out or lean in this is the camber adjustment so you'regoing to know if your camber adjustment is off by looking at the belly of thelower part of the tire you want to compare this curve on the outside on theinside if you know this one curve take
some more out of a bigger belly than theother side that means the tire is leaning to one side more than the otherand you want to look at this for both sides of the tire now when we take alook at our camera adjustment for maximum ride height you can see thefront camber is directly in the center position so you're going to want to havethe same thing the rear bushing for the right side suspension the camber is alsoin the center this is at maximum ride height when we take a look at the leftside tire we also want to pay attention to the camber on the top of the tiremaking sure that it don't lean out or any you can also hide the tire bylooking at its straightness in compared
to the rear axle tire which we know isin fixed position vertical horizontal and parallel so again we want to look atthis tire over here we want to look at the belly of the tire that will be thearea that's observing all the weight on the outside and on the inside of thetire making sure to have an even better when we take a look at the left sideright height we will notice it's one inch higher than the right side andthat's approximately thirty four and a half so we have an uneven right heightat the front suspension we have set our adjuster to a evenlocation the only thing that could cause this uneven front suspension would be abench swayed bar you can go to this
video here to see the installations ofthe suede bar and link and its support mount you will notice when the left sideend link is connected this right side seems to elevate itself above the linkthat is a sign that the swayed bar is been a on even suspension even thoughthe spring is adjusted for even right height you will also notice this unevenright height at the upper control arm and between the bump stop you'll takethe tape signal measure it for example this side is 3/4 of an inch and theother side is half an inch so when that difference is leveraged it will equateto a difference of between one and a half or one inch in difference of rightheight once we are final with the camber
adjustment it's time for us to move sothe toe-in and toe-out adjustment this is the adjustment that keeps the tiretraveling in a perfectly straight line so your adjustment is going to have tobe made from this center link by unlocking these two locker nuts so sometime you're going to have this is going to happen to you the nut is just goingto become strip because you're going to use a wrench like this but what's reallyrecommend for it is not is a wrench like this of its size this is called alanguage so since i could not get this not over here i just back off this hereand i was able to remove it from this end and turn the tie-rod to make myadjustment since the stabilizer bar is
on even on both ends this will cause thein regular surface with the tire like we see in this video in its first partseries this uneven stabilizer bar at its end link will also cause destruction tothe shock observer the uneven stabilizer bar will cause the suspension to move inregularly contributing to unnecessary vibration destroying its joint it isimportant that the swayed bar be replaced immediately before driving thevehicle for it is dangerous to drive the vehicle with a uneven tension at the endof the stabilizer bar the stabilizer bar is important at high speeds and takingturns at high speeds the stabilizer bar is also important in controlling thesuspension when it impact pothole and
speed bump rises at moderate or highspeed so now we will replace the stabilizer bar you can go to this videodescription to see how to replace the stabilizer bar and link and its mount now we want to take our measuring tapeand you want to measure the distance between this locker not the inner locknut and outer lock and up and you can see approximately at 9 we want to havethis same measurement on the right side we're also going to second check our toealignment by putting the tape on the inner lip of the rimand looking at the measurement against the frame rail so i have 13 and a halffrom the tire rim to the frame rail we
want to have the same measurement on theright side this is going to ensure a perfectly straight forward moving tirein your alignment so if you cannot get to a computer aligning machine you'regoing to have to use a ruler on a measuring tape like this and you couldget the perfect or close to the perfect alignment you're going to have to soyou're going to have to test drive the vehicle for your final result based onhow the steering wheel feel you don't want the vehicle to pull to one sidemost of the time the vgo will have a tendency to pull to the left or rightside all depends on which side of the road you're driving but that should nothave an effect when you're staring the
vehicle should not pull to the left orright when you release the steering wheel should always maintain a straighttraveling so now this linkage is locked we mustremember to replace our cotter pin let's check the right side and that'swhat we want a little bit above a nine and a half mark that will be aroundthree entry quarter and then we want to go on the inside to check the rim on thetire to the frame rail now we want to check our caster alignment that's thealignment that i took from up above in the fender well so to check for aperfect caster alignment we're going to use the measuring table or connect tothe front of the axle and run it down
all the way to the rear axle the centerof the rear axle that will be the center of the wheel to the center of the rearaxle on the other side the caster allowing is best and preferred when it'saligned from the front axle rear axle center position both side must carry thesame measurement